Hello, Boston! Good-bye, Blog!

We were supposed to arrive in Boston, our final destination, at 6am on Sunday morning. However, because of a medical emergency with a passenger the Captain sped things up and said we would be arriving around 1am.

For whatever reason – maybe I was going a little stir crazy – I was very anxious to see Boston. It was such a mix of emotions – joy at returning to the U.S., sadness at the end of our time in Europe, and anticipation and nervousness about what the next chapter of our lives would hold. I hardly slept that night. I kept waking up and looking out the window to see if we’d arrived yet. Several times I even walked around the ship to see if I could see the lights of the city. I was awake when we finally reached the port so I took a few pictures and then attempted (again) to try to get a little more sleep.

When it was actually time to get up we packed up our last things and ate breakfast just as Boston was waking up. We had a great view of the city.

After breakfast we gathered our things and waited for our dismissal from the ship to be called. Then we disembarked, made our way through a mob of people to find our luggage, and had the warmest welcome ever from my dear sister, Anne.

It is hard to believe that was 6 months ago. Obviously, I am very behind on blogging. There are a number of reasons for this: of course there’s the usual excuse of being busy. I had some technological challenges. I had some very creepy blog comments which made me think long and hard about just how much of my life I wanted to broadcast on the World Wide Web. I had a lot to blog about and it took me a while to formulate my thoughts.

But the bottom line is this: My heart is not in any more. I’ve always believed that people make time for the things that matter the most…and this blog is no longer a priority. I started it with the tagline “The Adventures of a Family of Military Nomads.” The fact is, we are no longer a military family. Though we are still nomads (searching for a permanent home) and we have plenty of adventures (we’ve visited 16 states and countless friends and family in the last 6 months) things just aren’t what they used to be and I’m still adjusting to that.

Maybe someday I’ll start blogging again, but for now I’m going to say goodbye. Thanks for reading, thanks for commenting, and thanks for being part of our adventures.

5 Days at Sea (and not a moment of boredom)

I am not very good at doing nothing. That is  one reason I was a little nervous about the cruise itinerary once we left Reykjavik: we had 5 days at sea before reaching the port in Boston.

5 days without seeing or setting foot on land. I was also a bit concerned about how this would go. Would we be bored? Would we go stir crazy? Would we get scurvy?

Oh, silly me. The days were filled with activity – and they flew by. Because we were in the chilly North Atlantic we didn’t spend much time on the deck even though there were plenty of available deck chairs.

And though we loved our Oceanview Stateroom With Balcony, we didn’t spend all of our time there either.

I think the boys wouldn’t have minded being couch potatoes. After 3 years of the Armed Forces Network’s television offerings, the ship had Cartoon Network, which was a big thrill.

We also spent time implementing our Transitional Educational Contingency Plan.

What better leisure activity is there than a good book? Or a good British comic.

Another bonus of time in the room: the adorable towel animals made by our room attendant.

Eating was a big part of our day, as it is for most cruise passengers. Thanks to desserts like this lemon tart I did not succumb to scurvy.

Dinner each night was a 2-hour long affair. We enjoyed delicious food (of course) but also loved the people who took care of us – like Paul who brought fun drinks in fancy glasses for the kids.

Another food favorite: the self-serve ice cream at the buffet. My favorite were the sugar scones served for 3pm tea each day.

To work off the effects of all that eating we did spend time in the gym. I favored the treadmill and the elliptical; Jeremy did laps around the deck on the 1/6 mile track. How he could run a few miles without getting seasick or dizzy was beyond me.

We did have some adverse weather. One day the ship was completely enveloped in fog. I had some nervous thoughts (think Titanic) but we did not see any icebergs nor did we have any trouble. The fog horn was blaring though.

We had another day with terrible 8-10 meter swells. It felt like airplane turbulence, except that the Seat Belt light was not illuminated. Whenever the seas got rough these packets of barf bags appeared on the handrails. Thankfully I didn’t witness anyone using them.

The seas were so rough that the swimming pool became a wave pool and all of the water sloshed out. After that it was a little difficult to swim. Thankfully the roller coaster seas only lasted a day, and none of us got sick.

There were many entertainment options on board. The ship had a huge (10 story) atrium and various performances were staged here. In Jack and His Magic Beans this brave soul was suspended from the ceiling and proceeded to climb the bean stalk. Yikes.

There were more intellectual offerings as well. Daily scholarly lectures were given on such topics as the Industrial Revolution, the Geologic Features of Iceland, and the Battle of the Atlantic. We all attended a talk by the ship’s leadership in which the Captain told about the history and operations of the ship. My knowsy self loved it.

In the evenings there were plenty of live shows in the theater – comedians, dance shows, bands, hypnotists – all great entertainment.

The ship also had a movie theater with a variety of daily showings – I saw The Butler – and a movie screen on the pool deck. Most days it was a little too chilly for an outdoor movie, even if the movie was, appropriately enough, Frozen.

The kids LOVED the kids club. I think they would have stayed there all day if we’d let them. We weren’t allowed inside – nor were we supposed to take photos (oops) – but the many variations on Dodge Ball were a hit with the boys.

Many venues around the ship had live bands throughout the evening. If only I knew how to dance…

Of course I didn’t have to dance to enjoy the music, but it looks like all the good seats are taken.

The ship had three pools – one for kids, one for anyone, and an indoor pool just for adults called the Solarium.

The kids were allowed in the Solarium in the event of inclement weather. Thankfully (or regretfully) we did have a few days where the inclement weather policy was in effect so we enjoyed the tropical environs.

What cruise ship would be complete without a climbing wall? Thomas had some amazing climbing skills.

We hit the course for 9 holes of mini-golf. The ship’s motion totally threw off my game.

We hooped it up on the court.

The last day of the cruise was sunny and warm enough for the kids’ pool and the kids took advantage.

We also spent time in the game room, comparing Apples to Apples and playing Thousand. (For the record, I had a come-from-behind victory for the win.) We also played a few games of Bingo (no wins there) and participated in some Trivia games (which are cutthroat!)

The time flew right by. We needed the elevator to remind us what day it was. (Seriously, the elevators had these tiles that would change daily to help passengers keep track of the schedule.)

The cruise was pretty great. In the end there was no boredom, no stir-crazy, and no scurvy. I could get used to this. Maybe they are accepting applications.

Galley, Gee!

I have been accused of being knowsy (which I try very hard not to confuse with being nosy); that is, I love information. A behind-the-scenes tour of the ship was offered during our cruise but at $150 per person, my frugal self overrulled my knowsy self and I declined.

However, thanks Rachel (my wonderful friend) and Anthony (our very kind dining room head waiter) my knowsy self, my frugal self, and my foodie self all were satisfied by a complimentary tour of the ship’s galley! That was much more interesting than seeing things like the engine room and the laundry anyhow. We had the privilege of seeing how the amazing kitchen staff on the Brilliance of the Seas manage to keep their guests well fed – maybe sometimes too well fed – for the duration of the cruise.

Despite this sign, neither the crew member leading the tour nor the 25 of us on the tour got into trouble for being in the galley.

Though the term “galley kitchen” usually means a very compact space, that wasn’t true here. This kitchen produces thousands of meals a day. There is one main formal dining room and one buffet, and several specialty restaurants.

We visited the kitchen during a non-peak time but there was still plenty of activity going on. The level of experience of the chefs and kitchen staff were indicated by the scarves they wore. Yellow indicated a chef’s first stint on the ship; blue was for those who were more experienced.

I was impressed by many things in the galley, but this meat slicer definitely caught my eye.

Of course there were lots and lots of dishes.

LOTS of dishes. We volunteered the boys to assist with dishwashing since we didn’t want them to be out of practice but the crew has that task covered.

Preparation for dinner was already underway. The main dining room has a different menu every night with the exception of few items (like shrimp cocktail and Manhattan strip steak.) Every night we could choose a starter (soup, salad or another appetizer), a main course, and a dessert…or more than one of each. I realized that I was really getting into the spirit of cruising when I would spend a part of the day wondering just what would I would have for dinner.

One fascinating area was the bread bakery. All bread consumed on the ship is baked on board.

The baker had a lot of dough rising. Every night at dinner we are offered rolls and can choose from a variety of kinds – cheese rolls, pumpkin seed rolls, white rolls and seeded rolls. (In the front of the picture is a container of shredded cheese.)

This amazing device is the key to making dozens of rolls. The baker would put a big slab of dough on the plate of this device, lower the top portion and the whole thing would shimmy and shake for a few seconds. When he lifted it up the blob had been divided into about two dozen perfectly shaped little blobs of dough: rolls.

These people were tasked with preparing 400 individual shrimp cocktails every day! I wonder if their fingers permanently smell like shrimp.

Even these culinary experts use recipes.

At dinner, after the wait staff takes orders they are entered into the computer. This screen instructs the chefs what needs to be made. Each steak is made just for the person who ordered it!

If I could have chosen an area to work in I would volunteer for the dessert section.

This first-time chef was tasked with dipping strawberries in chocolate. Yum!

There are several soups on the menu each night, and soup is offered at lunch time as well. Those enormous vats are where the soup is prepared. One gentleman on our tour convinced the chef to let him do a little tasting.

We enjoyed our nightly feasts in the dining hall. A table was reserved for us and the same servers took care of us each evening. After a few nights the wait staff would anticipate what we would order and would have things ready for us – like fruit salad at the boys’ places. The wait staff was excellent and treated us like royalty each night. It was just one of the things we enjoyed while cruising across the Atlantic.

Roses are Red, Lagoons are White and Blue

Our second day in Iceland was spent soaking in the amazing and luxurious Blue Lagoon. This is a semi-natural hot tub. The water is heated geothermically, but is actually the output from a power plant so it doesn’t come directly from underground. All of Iceland has geothermal heat which is why some companies locate their production plants here – energy is cheap.

This wristband is the key to a visit to the Blue Lagoon. (This picture was taken after our visit, which is why my fingers are so wrinkled!) It contains a microchip that is used for entrance and exit, for opening and closing a locker, and is even linked to our account so that refreshments could be purchased while soaking in the Lagoon.

Conditions weren’t so fabulous for being outside. It was rainy and very windy, but thankfully the water in the Lagoon was more than 100ºF so as long as we stayed in the water we were quite toasty. The trip from the locker room to the lagoon was quite unpleasant though! (And, to make matters worse, when I was ready to get out I was quite upset to find that someone had taken my towel! Frustration!)

The steam from the hot water combined with the mist and rain made the visibility quite limited.

That, combined with the fact that the water is milky white from all of the minerals (we couldn’t see 6 inches underwater) meant that all children 8 and under were required to wear swimmies. (That is what we used to call them – they are also known as water wings.) Even though Andrew is an excellent swimmer, and even though he is much bigger than just about every other 8 year old, in the name of safety he had to wear florescent orange swimmies for the first time in his life. He was a bit embarrassed but he was a good sport about it.

There were lifeguards up in this booth. There was a bit windshield wiper (though obviously this is just a window, not a windshield) to keep the window clear. There were also staff persons walking around the perimeter. The weather was so bad they should get a hardship pay bonus.

We spent about an hour and a half soaking in the Blue Lagoon. There were pots of mud at a few locations, for a self-serve mud facial. (Since I don’t have a waterproof camera I don’t have any photos of that.) Some areas of the Lagoon were super hot; others were just lukewarm. We all had a good soak and then an expensive snack.

 

Thomas is actually standing next to the Lagoon water. It is opaque, chock full of minerals – which would explain why my hair felt like straw after we left. Even after plenty of shampoo and conditioner it had the texture of steel wool.

For me, the Blue Lagoon was my last Iceland experience. Though I would have loved to explore the city of Reykjavik, the weather was so cold and miserable I opted to return to our nice warm stateroom with Thomas.

Andrew, Jack  and Jeremy were determined to try their luck at fishing again. Using a room-service-ordered shrimp cocktail as bait they actually did pretty well.

They fished right next to where the ship was docked. For a few days afterward other passengers would say to Jeremy, “Hey, was that you that was fishing in Iceland? How did you do?” He was quite a celebrity.

This aquatic specimen was assumed to be a rockfish. Later research identified it as a scorpion fish. That’s a fish face only a mother could love! (The fisherman, on the other hand, is quite charming and adorable.)

They fished almost until departure. I was a bit worried that we were going to set sail without them, but I kept my eye on them from our balcony and I was relieved when they headed back to the ship.

Fishing and a relaxing visit to the Blue Lagoon: that is a great day in Iceland, even if I didn’t buy any souvenirs or see any puffins.

Thor and the Golden Circle

 

This post is brought to you by Mr. Steiper, who assigned the task of writing a report on Iceland back in 5th grade, and a labor and delivery nurse, who kept me distracted entertained with tales of her trip to Iceland when I was in labor with my older son. (Most memorable quote: “When we got off the bus the tour guide said, ‘Many people, when they arrive in Iceland, think they have arrived on another planet!'” How true!)

With a preview like that how could I not be completely thrilled to have two days in Reykjavik while cruising across the Atlantic! Once again we opted not to take the cruise ship’s excursion. This time we booked a small group tour (there were 16 of us plus our guide/driver) with Iceland 4 You tours. Our guide couldn’t have been better. For starters, his name was Thor. He was cheerful and knowledgeable and kept us enthralled with tales of trolls and elves, geothermal oddities, and everyday life in the unique island nation of Iceland.

We arrived in port mid-afternoon and weren’t scheduled to leave until the evening of the following day. Iceland is quite remote – stuck out in the middle of the North Atlantic. It was the furthest north we’d ever been.

The Golden Circle tour is an 8 hour trip that took us to the highlights around Reykjavik. We saw all kinds of natural wonders – though sadly, no active volcanoes (though one was erupting during our time in Iceland) and no glaciers. Ah well, next time. Our first stop was a shopping plaza with a display on earthquakes. Iceland is prone to all matter of geologic events and a few years earlier there was a pretty devastating earthquake. I didn’t take any photos though, nor did I buy anything. We then stopped at this waterfall. It was raining out (typical Icelandic weather) so we took just a few moments to admire the waterfall and, on the left side of the photograph, a ladder built to help salmon to get upstream. Those Icelanders are so helpful!

Here’s some advice that Thor gave us: If we were to get lost in an Icelandic forest, we should stand up. Get it? There are virtually no trees in Iceland – the short growing season keeps them from getting any height at all – so just standing up would help us to find our way. (I suppose the joke isn’t so funny if I have to explain it.)

Our next stop was Haukadalur where we saw many geysers. The geothermically warmed water explodes through the surface here. The English word geyser comes from the Icelandic word geysir. (surprise!)

The biggest geyser erupts quite frequently, though not on a predictable schedule like Old Faithful. When I asked Thor if they had a schedule for the eruptions he looked at me like I was a bit nutty. I explained that at Yellowstone they can predict the next eruption based on the length of the previous eruption. He laughed and said that was not possible here. Fortunately, it erupts every few minutes so everyone gathered around, cameras at the ready, waiting for it to blow.

 

Suddenly YOWSA! Steam and hot water come flying from the ground! Jeremy gets credit for this picture – by the time the geyser erupted my camera had gone into energy save mode and I missed the big shot.

Instead I got a picture of the after effect – lots of steam and puddles.

There were plenty of little geysers all around as well. Yes, we put our hands in there, and yes, the water was warm.

It is funny how tours always seem to make a stop at gift shops. I’m not sure if they have some kind of deal with the gift shop owners, or if they know that people go crazy for souvenir shopping. It is probably both. As much as Andrew begged, we did not buy this Viking helmet or ax. He hasn’t mentioned it since the initial whining and pleading. I, on the other hand, did not buy the most adorable nativity set and I’m still kicking myself. Non-buyer’s remorse strikes again!

Next Thor drove us to Gulfoss to see some amazing waterfalls. Andrew, ever the unimpressed, said that Niagara Falls was better.

His facial expression in this lovely family photo expresses this sentiment perfectly. Inside his head I think he is saying, “Why can’t we go back to the ship so I can watch cartoons, play dodgeball, and sit in the hot tub?”

Thor was obviously quite proud of his Icelandic heritage. He told us lots of folklore and history on the tour. Here at Gullfoss he shared the story of  Sigríður Tómasdóttir (daughter of Tómas Tómasson – those Icelandic last names are quite predictable) who is known as Iceland’s first environmentalist. Her family once owned Gulfoss and the land around it and investors wanted to rent it to use it for hydroelectric power. Sigríður was vehemently opposed to this and even threatened to throw herself over the waterfall if construction began. There is a happy ending though – Sigríður did not take a swim and today Gulfoss is now property of the Icelandic government.

Not only was there plenty of mist from the waterfall, but it was also raining. We hiked around anyway.

Although from these photographs it may look incredibly unsafe, there are some barricades and fences to keep tourists from falling in the water.

After seeing the waterfall we stopped to greet these Icelandic horses. Though quite small, they are not ponies. Thor told us that they have seven different gaits which makes them quite unique. He said that some tour companies offer overnight tours on horseback. If I ever get back to Iceland that is what I want to do.

Either that or I want to tour around in this studly vehicle. Check out those tires! Thor said this is specially fitted with tires that can inflate or deflate depending on conditions, which allow this vehicle to drive on glaciers. Sadly, our tour’s mini-bus was not nearly as cool.

Our final stop on the Golden Circle was Þingvellir National Park. (That would be Thingvellir in English.) This area has historical, cultural, and geological significance. This is the place where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet. This rift is quite evident when viewed underwater, but since we don’t scuba dive we took Thor’s word for it. Our return to North America official took place here – the transition was so subtle.

This church is not only built in the classic Icelandic style but symbolizes the official religion of Iceland – Christianity. That decision was made on this site around the year 1000, though this church building was constructed about 900 years after that. Right next door to the church were some buildings often inhabited by the President of Iceland. There was no fence around it, and we were just standing in the driveway while Thor told us all about it!

Þingvellir National Park is famous for being the location of the Law Rock, where the people of Iceland met in what could be called a Parliamentary meeting. The leader of the group, the Law Speaker, was expected to recite, from memory, all the laws of the land. That would be quite a task for today’s American President!

The park also contains Þingvallavatn which is the largest natural lake in Iceland. We had a fantastic view of the lake and the rest of the park as we headed back to the mini-bus.

Thor had warned that there is a common ailment among visitors to Iceland: Icelandic Fever. Most people are so enthralled with this unique country that one visit to Iceland is not enough. I think I might have a touch of Icelandic Fever myself.

(A side note: I was really hoping to see the Northern Lights while in Iceland. Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate. The sky was socked in with cloud cover so we didn’t see a thing. There’s another reason to come back sometime!)

 

 

 

Faroe, Faroe (Oh, Baby)

The Faroe Islands weren’t even on my radar. When I saw that the cruise itinerary included Klaksvik, I had to find a map. For reference, the Faroe Islands are just about midway between the British Isles and Iceland. I don’t think this group of islands even merited a mention on Where In The World is Carmen Sandiego?

The islands are quite unique in their geography and topography. I was so enamored that I took lots of photos.

The port, Klaksvik, is a small town – only 5,000 people. In comparison, the ship had about 2,000 passengers and nearly 900 crew members.

The excursion options were limited so we opted to wander around town and see what we could see. I don’t even think we could have found a taxi or a rental car if we wanted to.

We didn’t see many locals. It was really strange to invade this quiet little town. Everywhere we looked we saw familiar faces – fellow cruise passengers.

Our first stop was Christiankirkjan, the local church.

This is the bell tower of the church.

The church was built in 1963 and was designed by Peter Koch in the traditional Nordic style.

Soon after we arrived at the church this gentleman came and began telling about the church (which is Lutheran by the way) and its history.

There was an interesting story behind this painting – I think it came from another church – but I can’t remember the details. I really should have taken notes or something. I do remember that it was a depiction of the parable of the banquet (see Luke 14 for the whole story.) It does look a bit out of place compared to the design of the building.

Another interesting feature is the Faeroese rowing boat which is suspended from the ceiling. Interesting decor idea – I’ve never seen that on Pinterest.

The baptismal font is made from a 4,000 year old rock which was originally used in Denmark by heathens for some kind of sacrifices. (I am not judging there – that is what it says on the Faroe Islands website.)

Another interesting feature in the church were these wooden depictions of events in the life of Christ. They were in the basement which served as a fellowship hall. They would have made a great souvenir but alas, they were not for sale.

This little town was surrounded by two things: water and mountains. So lovely!

I did pay a visit to an ATM. These Faeroese bills are beautifully illustrated with local scenes. (Danish currency is also accepted in the Faroe Islands because the islands are under the Danish realm but are self-governing.)

What did I spend that money on? Well, there weren’t a lot of options. There is not a single franchised restaurant in all of the Faroe Islands. (There went my chance of getting a Starbucks souvenir mug.) There was one bakery/cafe open and we had lunch. Since we didn’t know exactly what we were ordering it was a bit like chef’s surprise. I didn’t worry about not getting enough to eat – soon enough we’d be back on the ship with endless buffets.

Aside from food, there weren’t a lot of shops open. Apparently many of the locals make handmade goods and have a little craft fair near the tourism office when cruise ships arrive; unfortunately since it was the end of cruise season they were pretty well sold out. I was hoping to get some local wool but there was none to be found. I should have picked up a Faroe Island football jersey, like Rachel did (personalized even!) Non-buyer’s remorse strikes again!

After we had a little snack at the bakery the clouds rolled in (apparently it rains nearly every day here) and it started to downpour. That was the end of our Faeroese adventure.

Wait – we’re missing someone here….

Jeremy and Andrew opted to split off early in search of some fishing opportunities.

I had tried to find a charter fishing trip for Jeremy – he hadn’t been fishing in years and the fishing around the islands was supposed to be quite good. Unfortunately fishing season ended about a week earlier so he had to take matters into his own hands.

After a bit of effort they found a shop that had fishing gear for sale so they bought a fishing pole, some lures and some bait. They threw in their line right near the port (there was water everywhere – it wasn’t difficult to find a spot) and had a bit of luck!

I am sure that Andrew enjoyed this much more than walking around and looking at mountains and churches.

Unfortunately they couldn’t keep the fish. They did keep the gear though and were hoping to use it at the next port.

This one looks like a giant goldfish! (The fish, not the fisherman.)

Goodbye Faroe Islands! Next stop: Iceland!

Cork and Blarney with Valentine

Ireland didn’t make our original DEROS list. I was tempted to add it, especially after seeing lots of photos from friends who had visited, but it didn’t make the cut – until the cruise. I was quite happy to see that a stop in Cobh, Ireland was on the itinerary, and it was one more reason that taking the cruise was a great decision. Sadly, the stop was quite short. We only got to see a teeny-tiny bit of this beautiful country, but we do have a passport stamp to prove it. (That’s a funny thing about passports – they certainly do not indicate where travels have taken us. We visited 19 countries in 3 1/2 years and we have only 12 stamps – and 9 of them are from our trips to England!)

The must-see in the Cobh area is Blarney Castle. Once again we avoided the ship’s excursions and booked a private tour on Paddywagon Tours. Our driver and tour guide extraordinaire was named Valentine. He sang, he danced, he told us the tales of Ireland. (Just kidding about the dancing – but he really did sing and kept everyone enthralled with his stories!)

Valentine dropped us off at Blarney Castle and we meandered our way along a lovely path to the Castle itself. The boys were, of course, absolutely enthralled by the little stream along the path.

They spent time looking for fish and frogs – I thought they should have been looking for leprechauns.

I was enthralled by the hand-knitted tree sweaters.

The castle looks quite mystical in this photo – I’m not sure what fancy camera setting Jeremy was using but it worked.

Compared to many other castles we’ve seen in Europe, this one was definitely rustic. Rather than rooms filled with fancy antique furnishings, we saw remnants of what once was, accompanied by signs that said things like, “This was the dining room…” Needless to say, there wasn’t any dining furniture to be seen.

The castle has certainly seen better days, but it is charming just the same.

A favorite activity  at Blarney Castle is Yoga. Kidding again! Actually, this might be some kind of yoga pose but that is what it takes to kiss the famed Blarney Stone. Jeremy encountered this famous rock but I can’t say if there has been much of an effect. Perhaps once he starts preaching regularly again we’ll know for sure.

Andrew also opted to kiss the Blarney Stone, with two creepers looking on.

There were plenty of stairs to climb and the reward for getting to the top was a fantastic view. After we were finished at the castle we crossed the street and checked out the Irish goods for sale at the Blarney Woolen Mills. (No, we didn’t buy anything. Yes, I have non-buyer’s remorse.)

Next Valentine drove us to the city of Cork. We had limited time so we did not get to ring the bells at the church, nor did we visit the Cork Butter Museum, which is a shame because I really love butter. Instead we first strolled through the city in search of lunch.

Val suggested that we check out this “foodie paradise,” the English Market. Unfortunately, it was very crowded and tough to navigate. Hungry stomachs were dominating the desire to browse so we continued on.

We did find a quaint pub and had a great meal. Jeremy ordered the Irish Stew, which we realized probably could just be called Stew, since pretty much everything we ate at lunch was Irish. He accompanied this with the local stout, Beamish.

Cork is a beautiful and bustling town. Even the manhole covers are delightfully Celtic!

Cork/Cobh has a unique place in history because it was the last stop before the Titanic headed to its fateful end in the North Atlantic. This street artist reminded us of this fact with this mural.

The offices of the White Star Line was a short walk from where our ship was docked. We opted not to be further reminded of this fateful voyage since we’d be crossing the North Atlantic in just a few days. No need to borrow trouble.

These local ladies came to the port to see the ship off. I am not sure if they are envoys from the tourist bureau or ladies who just like to play dress up. At least they weren’t dressed in black.

As the ship sailed away we had a lovely view of Cobh from our balcony.

We said goodbye to Ireland and hello to a day at sea. (That, for the boys, was even more exciting than visiting Ireland!)

The Dorset Coast – Gateway to Stonehenge

Our next stop was back in England, a little known port named (appropriately!) Portland. It is also called Dorset or the Jurassic Coast.

The port is famous for its depth which was an asset during WWII (check out these D-Day remnants – giant concrete monstrosities like these were used to create the mulberries during the invasions) but aside from that it was tough to find anything to do that wasn’t a drive away.

Out of the options that were a drive away we chose a trip to the infamous Stonehenge.  Because I have an aversion to the ship’s excursions (check out our not-so-great experience on another cruise ship once upon a time) we hired a private driver to take us there. Our driver, Mick, took 8 of us in a mini-bus courtesy of Extra Mile Chauffeur Travel. Not only did Mick take us around in style, but he enlightened us on the history of the area.

There are several advantages to having a private driver. The cost was less than a ship excursions would have been. The agenda was dictated by us so we could cater our plans to our needs. We didn’t worry about fellow passengers who chose this particular cruise to get away from young children (I’m not kidding – I overheard a few people say this exact thing.) And most importantly, we were able to arrive at Stonehenge before the hoards of people arrived via motor coach.

Mick told us that we’d only need about 30 minutes to see Stonehenge. Obviously he’d made the trip there more times than he could count and was less than impressed by a bunch of big old rocks. Unfortunately, it was impossible to spend only 30 minutes at Stonehenge. All visitors start their Stonehenge experience here at the newly renovated Visitor’s Center. There we waited for a shuttle to take us the 1/10 of a mile to the site. (Again, I was quite glad that we beat the mobs of people – we got on a shuttle almost immediately. No lines, no waiting.)

And there it is! It looks just like the photos!

Stonehenge is definitely a unique place. It is impressive, old, and iconic. It is also mysterious since no one knows definitively (although there are some very good guesses) why ancient people decided to build such a huge structure. However, Mick was right – it is a bunch of old rocks. A famous bunch of huge rocks though.

We took the obligatory family photo. I will be sure to get this framed and put it next to the photos of us at the Colosseum, the Eiffel Tower, and the Acropolis, just to show off.

Here is another thing that made the visit longer than 30 minutes: the audio guide. Our history scholar wanted to listen to the information at every stop – no small feat.

This photo provides a little bit of perspective: Note the tiny birds on top of the rocks and the tiny people beside it.

There were a few interactive displays. This model of a stone allowed visitors to experience the challenge of moving such large stones to construct Stonehenge.

There were also models of the homes that the construction workers and their families once lived in.

After we left Stonehenge we were already short on time. Mick had recommended that we stop in the city of Salisbury to see the cathedral. Though I was anxious for a nice steak, we weren’t so anxious to see another Cathedral (though I might later regret it, as I do with regard to the churches in Rouen.) Instead we decided to find some lunch and then proceed to the beach. We found a nice British pub along the way and had lunch. This is a Free House because the property is owned outright – a Public House is just leased.

The Anvil Inn was charming and quaint, just like an English Pub should be. We enjoyed cider and beer, fish and chips, and some fabulous home made chicken fingers.

Also, as a bonus, a small pond out front provided some entertainment while waiting for our food. And as double bonus, no one fell in.

After lunch we headed to the coast. Weymouth Beach is a darling little town, and if the temperature was about 20 degrees warmer it would have been even more darling. It has been a holiday getaway spot for decades and I immediately thought of the season 4 finale of Downton Abbey.

There were plenty of things to do on the beach – rides and entertainment – and though it was overcast and chilly, plenty of people enjoying the day also.

We had neither swimsuits nor sand shovels so we just took a walk around. We didn’t have much time either.

I thought these beach chairs lined up along the promenade were especially wonderful. A little more sun and a good book and this is where I’d choose to be!

We had just a few pounds left to spend so we used them wisely – on ice cream. I got a scoop of Lemon Meringue and it was perfect.

All too soon it was time to wish Mick  – and England – goodbye and get back on the ship. Next stop: Ireland!

 

Rouen, France – Home of Noah’s Wife

One of the things I love best about a cruise is that the ship travels while we sleep. It’s like magic: we close our eyes at night and when we open them in the morning we’re in a completely new place. We left Harwich on Sunday evening, had a lovely meal in the dining room, explored the ship a bit, and then went to bed. When we woke in the morning we were docked at LeHavre, France. I rushed to the window, expecting to see beautiful French things like this:

We did see all of these things – eventually. But when we first looked out the window we saw this:

Not quite the picturesque Normandy coast I was expecting. Le Havre is (obviously) not just for tourists – it is an industrial port as well. There are many excursion options from Le Havre including Paris (no thanks – that is about 5 hours on a train, round trip) and the D-Day sites (loved them – but we’ve been there) or the cities of Honfleur, Étretat, or Mont St. Michel (check, check and check.) Instead we opted to take a train to the city of Rouen, which we didn’t get to visit on our earlier Normandy trip.

Rouen’s most famous daughter is Joan of Arc. (I was just kidding in the title – she was not married to the guy who built the big boat. He is much to old for her.) There was no shortage of Joan around town. Our first stop was the Tour Jeanne d’Arc – the Joan of Arc tower. We had the place to ourselves – in fact, I think we woke up the guide when we arrived. This tower was once part of a castle but the rest of the building is long gone.

This definitely wasn’t Joan’s Happy Place. About 600 years ago she was imprisoned and tortured here.

I suppose a stained glass window of the imprisonment and torture wouldn’t be nearly as lovely as Joan’s triumphant entry.

The tower was occupied by German soldiers during World War II. Remnants of attempts to redecorate the exterior in a camouflage scheme are still visible.

The visit to the tower, including climbing to the top, was less than an hour. Andrew’s highlight was seeing this cat. Though he begged to bring it back to the ship, he consented to a photo.

We visited another beautiful building commemorating a horrible event in Joan’s life: the location where she was burned at the stake. This church is modern, built in 1979, and is designed to mimic the shape of flames.

We had lovely weather while in Rouen so we enjoyed a relaxing time sitting outside the church. Only after our trip did I realize that the real beauty of this church is the stunning interior. Unfortunately, no one seemed particularly interested in seeing it so we missed out.

This spot where Joan was executed in 1431 is now a flower garden. This seems like a bit of a paradox – lovely plants and flowers in the place where a hero of France was brutally killed – but I don’t know what else would be appropriate either. That Joan was quite an intriguing figure.

The other “must see” in Rouen was the Cathedral, made famous by Claude Monet who painted it many times in his impressionist. The scaffolding and vehicles weren’t a part of his paintings though, so I found seeing the real thing slightly underwhelming.

This vantage point gave a more beautiful view of this architectural wonder. (And we didn’t go inside this one either! I’ll blame it on being “cathedral-ed out.” Pity, isn’t it?)

The rest of Rouen is quite lovely, though it was hard to take in all the loveliness with children who were more anxious to get back on the ship and go in the pool. That’s the irony – the boys think the best part of the cruise is the time on the ship, while we adults think the best part is the time in ports.

I can completely understand why a waterslide is more interesting to 8 and 11 year old boys than these historic buildings, but I wonder if someday they will realize their folly.

Finally (and I mean that in the most exasperated and impatient voice imaginable) we deferred to the most vocal in our group and made our way back to the train station and back to the ship.

After all, the kids aren’t the only ones who enjoy the chance to sit and relax.

Cambridge: Now I’ve Been There Too!

Both of my sisters were fortunate enough to spend a college semester studying in Cambridge, England. I’d heard about their adventures and they both suggested that we add Cambridge to our DEROS List. On an earlier trip we were quite close when we visited the Imperial War Museum but we didn’t get there. (That is yet another place for the Wouldda, Couldda, Shouldda list.) Since we were in the neighborhood again we decided to stop by and see what all the fuss was about.

I once told my husband, “If you want to be spontaneous, you have to plan ahead!” Unfortunately I didn’t heed my own advice. I should have asked my familial Cambridge Scholars just where we should go and what we should see so that I could walk in their footsteps around town. DIdn’t happen though, so I just wandered and wondered, “Were they here? Did they see this?” I do remember hearing about the Round Church though. Sarah and Anne, this photo is for you!

Across the street from the Round Church was an impressive sweet shop. Our family has been known to have a yen for candy so we stopped in and check it out. I could feel the cavities growing as we walked around.

Of course the shop made us think of Honeydukes, so we had to buy Chocolate Frogs. Andrew got the trading card of He-who-must-not-be-named, and Thomas got Dumbledore.

There was a little arts fair happening on the church ground – apparently it is a weekly event. We didn’t buy anything here (If I thought long enough I’m sure I’d have some non-buyer’s remorse) but I thought this bunting made of old neckties was quite clever.

We walked along the campus of Cambridge University, where the architecture was stunning.

We were also accosted by many students trying to get us to go punting on the Cam, but we declined. I know this is something my sisters had done, but we didn’t have a whole semester to explore – just a few hours. Plus the skies were looking a bit ominous.

Oh the history and discoveries that have happened in Cambridge! Such a scholarly place! My inner geek mused that we could be crossing paths with some of the greatest minds of our time, though they were difficult to spot amongst the tourists.

This innovative clock is called the Corpus Clock and, unbeknownst to me at the time, it is quite famous. (The number of people taking photos of it and looking at it was a bit of a clue.) It was named by Time magazine as one of the best inventions of 2008 and has some novel technology. I won’t even try to explain it all – just check out the Wikipedia article here. I just thought that grasshopper thing on top was kind of cute and scary at the same time.

Our fabulous tour guides made sure we noted that this building is home to a Jamie Oliver restaurant. We didn’t eat there though.

Instead we opted for the British classic, Fish and Chips. This is one of Andrew’s favorite meals, and he has become quite the connoisseur. Before ordering he always asks what type of fish it is, confirms that he can get lemon wedges, and clarifies that it is served with malt vinegar. Don’t worry – that man with his hand on Andrew’s head is our friend Doug.

We had a lovely visit to Cambridge, but there is no way that our few hours there could ever compare with the whole semester that my sisters had to explore the city. For starters I am sure we did a lot less studying than they did.